To block or not to block: It's entirely up to you. For instance in this little heart below I've added half a stitch at either end of the top row in order to smooth the curve of the top of the heart.
Using different yarn types: When using duplicate stitch you can mix different yarn types which might cause problems with tension if used during intarsia knitting.If you've knitted in intarsia the whole thing would have to be unpicked. You can also unpick to any point if you realise you've made a mistake – just gently undo half a stitch at a time without pulling too hard so as not to pucker the earlier stitches. Unpicking: With duplicate stitch it's easy to unpick the design completely if you don't like it any more and your knitted piece is still intact once you remove the design.Using lots of colours: When you knit intarsia using any more than 3 colours it becomes very complicated (and tangled) but working a design in duplicate stitch means that you can incorporate many more colours.It works well for any design that would normally use intarsia and there are some advantages that duplicate stitch has over intarsia: It's a stitch I use a lot especially on the front of bunny jumpers and some of the more complex dress designs. I think it would help make it hang well, and it would add an orange frame that would make this thing show up better on our white door at MDK World Headquarters.Duplicate stitch (also known as Swiss darning) is a useful technique for adding a surface design onto an already knitted piece. I’m still on the fence about adding a log cabin border. I can think of all sorts of things I’d like to chart up now. Reminder that Stitch Fiddle is the app that I used to convert the MDK logo into a knitting chart. It’s still pixelated, but you can see what I’m talking about here: Curves look better when knitted than they do on the chart. Edges will be toothier because each stitch is a V, not a rectangle.
Remember that your chart is not an accurate representation of how it will look knitted. Because the stitches in this logo are stacked vertically or horizontally, the legs of each duplicate stitch pull one way or the other. There’s a fair amount of noodging and afteryanking. You’re adding a second stitch on top of an already-existing stitch, so there’s a challenge here to make the new stitch cover the old one completely and evenly. This is not needlepoint you crank by the yard. Your stockinette background is the grid your chart is your guide to where you’ll be stitching onto that grid.ĭo not rush. This will take practice.” Man, if that isn’t advice for living, I just don’t know what is. Don’t leave too loose or your stitches will hang. My favorite instruction in here: “Don’t pull too tightly or you will have a crumple. Here’s the most succinct one I could find, thanks to Wikihow. Some of you asked for a tutorial in duplicate stitch. I like the dimensionality of the letters but think it will flatten once I do some stuff to it. I just finished up the K, and I haven’t blocked this yet. In short: it takes less time than you might think to knit up a sign and duplicate-stitch a logo. ( Here’s where this cockamamie project began.)
Duplicate stitch letter chart update#
We begin today with an update on the MDK door sign project.
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